Eagle Creek Trail to Tunnel Falls

Eagle Creek Trail to Tunnel Falls

Distance: 12 – 13 miles depending upon where you start

Difficulty: Moderate

Tunnel Falls

Fees / Permits:  Northwest Forest Pass and a (Free) Mark O Hatfield Wilderness Permit

Finding the Trail

The trail is very easy to find.  Coming from Portland, take exit 41 on HWY 84.  Once on the exit, simply follow the signs to the trailhead which is located about .5 miles south of the Eagle Creek Fish Hatchery.

You can take the road all the way to the trailhead but there are several signs that warn about vehicle break-ins at the trailhead and they suggest that you park at the fish hatchery.  I wasn’t feeling brave enough to risk the vandalism, so I chose to walk the additional mile (out and back) from the parking lot.

The Hike

The trail starts out with Eagle Creek on your right and the trail hugging the mountainside to your left.  The trail starts out with a fairly gentle uphill climb but it never really becomes overwhelmingly steep.  It doesn’t take long before the trail is actually carved out of the mountainside on your left.  This could frighten some people that are afraid of heights but thankfully, there is a cable attached to the mountain that you can hold onto if needed.

About 1.5 miles into the hike, you will come to a trail that leads to the Metlako Falls viewpoint on your right.  If you follow this trail, it joins back up with the main trail a short distance later.  The view of the falls is very impressive but I recommend that you stop by this viewpoint on your way in as opposed to your way out.  It is breathtaking when it is the first major viewpoint of the trip but can be a little lackluster if it is the last.  I am not sure what struck me as more impressive, the falls themselves or the sheer drop to the creek below as the viewpoint is on the edge of a very high cliff.

Once you are back on the main trail, the trail to Lower Punchbowl Falls is only about .5 miles away.  Before you get to the trail to the falls, you will cross a small creek that has some nice large concrete stepping stones to aid your crossing.  The trail to Punchbowl is fairly steep and drops about 200 feet.  It is out and back, so don’t expect to join the main trail without backtracking.  I found it to be very worthwhile to make the additional hike though.

There are some slightly eroded stairs at the bottom of the trail, but it opens up into a beautiful setting.  There are two falls, one to your right which you can’t miss and Punchbowl Falls is upstream a little ways and around a corner.  In the summer, this area fills with swimmers on hot days.  So if you want some privacy, you had better get there early.

The climb out of the falls is steep but short and it isn’t long before you are back on the trail.  The trail loops around the rim and gives you a nice viewpoint to get an aerial view of Punchbowl Falls.  The view from behind the roped off area is good but many people appear to have gone under the cable to get a closer shot, more dangerous.

Continuing down the trail from Punchbowl falls is a pleasant mostly level stretch of trail. A short distance further you will find another stretch of trail that is carved into the mountainside.  As you first see this, there will be a boulder on your right that allows for some very nice pictures of the canyon and the creek below.  Slightly farther along, about 3.5 miles from the trailhead, you will come to “High Bridge.”

High Bridge gives you a very impressive view of the canyon but it doesn’t really translate well to film.  It is a good place to rest and take in the scenery though.  About 100 yards beyond the bridge is a path to your left that leads down to another waterfall.  If the weather is cooperative, you can climb out onto the edge of this waterfall which offers some very nice views.  Climbing back up to the trail is easy and where it joins up, you will see a campsite that some hikers use.

The next viewpoint along the trail is another small bridge.  On a clear day, you can see the fish swimming below the surface of the water.  It is a pretty relaxing place to take in the scenery and you are about 4.5 miles in at this point. As you continue down the trail, you will come to a sign that discusses the forest fire that happened there back in 1902.  If you take the time to look around, you can still see evidence of that fire.

At this point, you are getting pretty close to the Mark O. Hatfield Wilderness Area.  You will cross through the Wyeast campground right before you reach it.  This wilderness area requires a Mark O. Hatfield wilderness pass which is available for free at the entrance.

Shortly after entering the wilderness area, you will have to cross a stream that could be a problem in the wetter part of the year.  When we went, the stream was practically dry and there were some nice dry logs to walk across.  I would be a bit hesitant to walk on them if they were wet though.  Once across the stream you will come across an intersection with the Pacific Crest trail.  We didn’t take it, so I can’t really vouch for the quality of it other than it looked to be fairly overgrown.

About .5 miles into the wilderness area, you will see a path that leads down to another waterfall.  It is a steep descent but worth the climb if you still have some energy left.  Once you get to the bottom, you will find a peaceful pool of water that is being fed by 2 smaller waterfalls and at the other end is a rather large waterfall.  A very breathtaking scene and the climb back out will get your heart pumping again.

It is only a short bit of trail left until you get to Tunnel Falls.  You can hear the falls as you round the corner of the trail.  Once the foliage clears you get an amazing view of the falls.  The creek below seems to be an incredible distance below as the falls pour down the mountain.  Now, I will admit that I hadn’t put much thought into the name “Tunnel Falls” but it hit me like a ton of bricks when I finally saw it.  As it turns out, there is a “Tunnel” that cuts into the mountain and goes under the “Falls.”  It really is an amazing site and simply a fantastic way to finish the hike.  If you want to get a picture of the entire falls, you will either need to bring a wide angle lens or climb down to the base of the falls.  The climb down is over some loose gravel but it isn’t that difficult of a descent.  I thought it was worth it for the photo opportunity.

The Reward

The rewards for this hike are the views.  This hike has several breathtaking waterfalls.  Each one seems to outdo the previous.  The hike itself is a long one but not all that challenging.  It is the views that make it worth it and if you are in the area, you should do yourself a favor and do this hike.  You won’t be disappointed.

-NWW – 1/24/2010

Stick and Shadow Direction Finding

Direction Finding Using a Stick

If you are lost in the wilderness without a compass and need to find your general direction, there are a few methods you can use to accomplish this.  This tip is probably the simplest method.

All you need is a stick that is about 3 feet long, or long enough to cast a decent shadow, and some sunshine.  Then you simply follow these four steps:

1. You need to somehow wedge the stick into the ground so that it is standing straight up and down so that it casts a shadow.  Mark the tip of the shadow with anything you have (button, rock, twig…etc).  This first mark is going to be west, regardless of where you are or the time of day (provided the sun is shining).
2. Next you need to wait long enough for the shadow to move a noticeable distance.  At this point, mark where the tip of the shadow is currently located.  This mark is going to be east, regardless of where you are or the time of day (provided the sun is shining).
3. Now you need to draw a straight line through the two points.  This gives you your east to west orientation.
4. Finally, stand with west on your left and east on your right.  You are now facing north and south is behind you.  This is going to be true regardless of where you are or the time of day (provided the sun is shining).

-NWW – 1/24/2010

Campfire Tips

Campfire Tips

• When choosing where to start your fire, ensure that there are no low branches nearby and that the area is clear of debris. You don’t want to accidentally burn the forest down.  Make sure that you clear enough space around your fire to accommodate the size of fire that you intend on making.  The bigger the fire, the bigger the clearing you will need.
• Prep a B-4 bucket “before” you actually build your fire. A B-4 bucket is just a bucket of water that you could use to put out any fire if things accidentally get out of hand.  Just fill one up and have it handy, just in case.
• Ideally, bring your own wood with you. Don’t rely on a campsite to provide wood for you unless you simply don’t have the room.  Wood that you can purchase at a campground is typically pretty expensive and you never get enough to really enjoy the fire.
• When bringing wood, make sure that you bring some different sizes.  The smaller the wood, the easier it is to start the fire.  The larger the wood, the longer it burns.
• Make sure that the wood you bring is dry.  Starting and maintaining a fire with green (freshly cut) wood is extremely difficult and will take a lot of fun out of your camping trip.
• Don’t forget the kindling.  Kindling is a pretty crucial part to starting a fire.  If you forget the kindling, you will have to get a lot more creative in your fire building.  In the summer months, you can probably salvage some dry twigs from the woods but if it is the rainy season, you are not going to be able to make a fire without kindling.
• Make sure that the fire is going before you add large bits of wood. Don’t add the large wood until you are sure that your kindling is burning on its own.  There is nothing worse than watching your fire go out because you smothered it.  Well, actually there are a lot of worse things out there but it is still pretty aggravating.
• Never leave a fire unattended. Humans are the cause of most forest fires.  If you aren’t going to be sitting at your fire, put it out.  It is a lot easier to build another fire later than it is to explain why you accidentally burned down the forest.
• Make sure that the fire is really out. When you leave for the day or go to bed for the night, put out your fire.  Use your B-4 bucket; pour some water on it slowly.  Wait until it stops sizzling, then stir it with a stick and pour some more water on it.  If you have no more sizzle, you should be good to go.

If you have any other questions regarding fire safety, please refer to Smokey the Bear.  http://www.smokeybear.com/

-NWW – 1/24/2010

Camelbak Alpine Explorer Review

Camelbak Alpine Explorer

The Good:

The Camelbak Alpine Explorer is a fantastic hydration pack.  With 3 liters of water and 33 liters of storage space, it is great for just about any level of day trip.  So far, I have taken it as far as 15 miles in a single trip and I’ve only had the bladder run dry once, and that was about 100 yards from the car.

The bladder is your standard Camelbak bladder.  If you have used a Cambelbak before, you know what you are getting.  If you are new to the Camelbak world, then you should be satisfied with what you will find.  The mouth is wide enough to easily fit your hand in, which allows for easy cleaning and easy filling, you can even put it under the ice cube dispenser on your fridge if you want.  The bite tube works flawlessly, simply bite and drink.  Plus, if you ever do run into any problems with the bladder, it is covered with a lifetime warranty.

Storage on the bag is more than adequate.  I am able to pack a lunch, a long sleeve shirt, my rain parka, a first aid kit, and my DSLR camera with no problems.  I don’t even have to loosen the straps at all.  I could easily pack more gear as the weather dictates it. There are several compartments to store your gear in;

• There is a large main pocket.
• A slightly smaller outer pocket that has a pen and document holder in it.
• A small fleece lined pocket for your MP3 Player or Cell phone.  Personally, I use this for my wallet, keys and cell phone.
• A large mesh pocket that divides the main pocket from the smaller pocket.  This is nice for storing any sweat drenched clothing so it can air out a bit without funking up the rest of your gear.
• A small side pocket that I haven’t really found a great use for yet, but I am sure I will eventually.
• It even has a small mesh pocket on each side of the pack that I use to store any trash I generate or find while I am outdoors.

The pack also has a nice airflow system for the back panel.  This is a much nicer alternative to the standard flat back panel that many packs offer but not quite up to par with the high end packs from Camelbak or Northface.

There are also plenty of straps that you can use to adjust the Alpine Explorer to fit your needs.  The waist belt and chest strap can be adjusted to keep the pack nice and snug to your body.  The cargo straps can be adjusted to keep your gear tight and not bouncing all over the place.

The Bad:

It isn’t easy to find something bad about this bag.  One complaint that I have is that the area where the slack from chest strap on the left side is gathered rubs against the inside of my arm when I am hiking.  It hasn’t rubbed me raw but it does get a little annoying as the miles go by.  The only other negative I have found is that the waist belt seems to come loose fairly quickly.  It is really easy to cinch back up but it would be nice if it stayed put once you have it set.

The Ugly:

None.  I can’t even complain about the price.  I found my pack for $80 with free shipping and a free cleaning kit.  I haven’t found anything that matches the features found on this pack for less money.

Final Word:

If you are looking for a good hydration pack for some nice long day hikes, look no further.  This is a fantastic pack and it is well priced.  The Camelbak Alpine Explorer really is a worth the price.

I purchased my pack on sale, here http://www.rockcreek.com/camelbak/alpine-explorer-hydration-pack/?ref=a_avant_RCO&avad=397_e4722f5

-NWW – 1/24/2010

Building a Wikiup

Building a wikiup is no small task. Pictured is a wikiup that I built with the assistance of two other people. The three of us took several hours to build this using nothing but the natural resources of the local area.

This Wikiup comfortably slept two people.  Originally it had a fire pit on the inside as well, but the wood in the area was so saturated that building and maintaining a small fire was almost impossible.  Instead we opted to build a large fire outside and just use a few hot rocks when it came time to sleep.

We built this Wikiup using several 10 foot long poles.  These poles were scavenged from dead wood in the area.  Once we built the frame with the poles, we filled in the outside using green bow branches.  The bow branch portion of the project was honestly the most time consuming portion of it.  It takes a lot of bow branches to effectively shelter the entire Wikiup.

When it was finally complete, it served as a nice shelter against the elements.  It wasn’t the warmest shelter in the world but it did protect us from the snow storm and it was much warmer than the sheet of plastic that I had slept under the night before.

-NWW 1/25/2010

Keeping Warm In a Cold Environment

Keeping Warm

According to the Army, there are four basic principles to follow if you want to keep warm.  They have even been nice enough to create an easy to remember acronym to help memorize them.  The acronym is COLDER and the explanation is as follows:

C- Clean: Keep your clothing as clean as possible. This is important for both sanitation and heat preservation. It is important in relation to warmth because dirty clothes that have become matted with dirt and filth will lose not insulate you nearly as well. The filth fills up the airspace that is normally between the fibers and heat transfers much easier this way.

O- Overheating: Simply put, you should avoid overheating. When you exert yourself too hard, you will inevitably build up a sweat.  This sweat can actually become life threatening.  It affects your warmth in two ways.  First, your body is sweating to cool itself off; the wicking nature of sweat in the cold will cool your body down much farther than it needs to.  The second cooling effect is that dampness also leads to a decrease in the insulation value of your clothing.  Ultimately you want to adjust your clothing and your work load so that you do not sweat. You can do this by partially opening your jacket and by monitoring your layers of clothing. The head and hands are very good about regulating your heat.

L- Loose Layering: Layering is essential to surviving the cold.  You want to make sure that when you are layering, that you keep the layers relatively loose. Tight clothing and footgear will restrict your blood flow and in cold conditions, this could lead to trouble.  Tight clothing also reduces the natural insulation that air provides between layers.  Because of this, the choice of several layers of lightweight clothing would better than choosing one layer of equally thick clothing.  Also, the versatility that multiple layers allow is very important when it comes to temperature management.  If you only have one thick layer, you would never want to take it off.

D- Dry: Keep yourself dry. When out in the cold it is easy to get wet without even trying.  Your inner layers of clothing can get wet by sweating and if your outer layer isn’t waterproof, it can become wet from snow, frost, mist, or even dew on brush that you walk through. If at all possible, you should wear a water repellent outer layer. If you are lucky enough to have a heated shelter, you should make sure that you brush off any snow and shake off any water before you enter.  Sometimes, you are still going to get wet, regardless of how hard you try to prevent it. When this happens, drying your clothing may become a difficult challenge.  If it is a sunny day, you can try to put some of your clothing on a rock or a bush, anything to get it exposed to the sun and wind. You can try to use your body heat to dry out your clothes by placing damp socks or gloves against your skin.  In your campsite, hang damp clothing inside the shelter near the top if possible.  This will take advantage of the heat that gets trapped at the top. You may even use your campfire to dry individual items.  This requires a few precautions though because if you are careless, you can ruin your clothing and render them useless.  Make sure that you dry leather items slowly to avoid shrinkage.

E-Examine: Examine your equipment.  Make sure you keep an eye on your clothing and gear for worn areas, tears, and general cleanliness.

R-Repair: Make repairs as soon as possible.  Repair your gear early while the holes and tears are still small.  If you wait too long, those small holes can become non repairable holes. If possible, try to carry a sewing kit with you but if needed, you can make an improvised sewing kit from a variety of things such as; parachute cord, bones, various plant materials.

-NWW 01/24/2010